My experience at Wagah border

On my first visit to Amritsar, Punjab in March 2007, I was very thrilled to see the Golden Temple, the very seat of Sikhism. Also, I planned to eat all the punjabi delicacies and the original lassi, topped with butter and do lot of shopping as well. But my excitement went to the peak when I realized that I can visit India-Pakistan border at Wagah and see the ceremonial retreat, which is a half an hour drive from Amritsar. Initially I was a bit tensed since it IS the INTERNATIONAL border of India and Pakistan.

Well, I was preparing myself mentally about these things. We went by a taxi arranged by the Guru Nanak Dev University where I was giving a lecture to the students. One of the students accompanied us and was describing the daily event to me. On the way we saw the Second line of defense and near to the border we saw the first line of defense. I was amazed that there are agricultural fields within the first line of defense and it spans the other side of the border as well. I was told that farmers with special permission still till the land.

We walked for about 500 mtrs to the gate from the parking area. I was getting a bit apprehensive and at the same time I was thinking the importance of the border and the retreat. Instead of taking the straight road to the gates on each border we were taken a detour on the right hand side to the point where there is a milestone which has INDIA written on the side facing our country. Just a foot way is Pakistan. Can you imagine if I want to place a foot on the other side at that place I need a visa? Two Border Security Force jawans with AK-47 mounted on horses were watching every one's move. Exactly on the other side were two Pakistani Rangers on horses and watching us. There was just a steel railing separating us to them in that point. There were Pakistanis as well walking opposite to us on similar path. In fact the impenetrable border looked to me so simple.
The path turned left and we came close to the gates separating the border. That's when I realized that I was standing in "No man's land". Wow....that's what I said to myself. Now that's as close as I can get to see my country's boundary. After finding a suitable place to sit and view the whole retreat, I was told that everyday there is a huge rush to see display of power. I could see the Pakistani galleries clearly and many of the Pakistanis were shouting slogans and beating drums to which the Indians were laughing and booing. Huge speakers were blaring all the patriotic songs and many people started dancing on the very road to those tunes. In fact the best part was to see children dancing merrily. I was not sure if they had understood why they were dancing. Any case, it was quite heartening to see these events. All the time, people (including me) shouted "Bharat Mata ki Jai" "Hindustan Jindabad" "Vande Mataram". We were instructed not to shout any other slogans

Then there was the announcement and six BSF jawans paraded in front of us. This was the event I had been eagerly waiting for so many years. One by one, six of them marched with long steps and showed their chest proudly to the Pakistani side, and so were the Pakistanis to Indian side. It was a very coordinated process that it looked as if they had rehearsed it. The gates were opened so forcefully to show each one's strength. At the sound of the bugle, both the countries flag were hoisted down and folded neatly and brought to the room where it will be kept for the night.

At the end, I started thinking about the display of hostility that is clearly seen on both sides, even though I am told this is toned down recently due to the peace prevailing between the two countries. I couldn't comprehend that it is just an imaginary line that is separating us from them. I saw the local Pakistanis from a distance but they don't look any different from us. They were wearing the same clothes and in fact their drum beats was identical to our Bhangra beats. For different people, Wagah border symbolizes different things. For some, it is the pride for India, for some it is the display of hostility each one of us harbour. For some it is a picnic spot and for some a major tourist attraction. For me, it is the very symbol of our partition. It is the symbol of the ongoing peace between the two countries. For me, it is what we have to remember every moment that the people on the side are also humans made of the same blood.

Well, in the end I ticked off an item from my "List of things I have to see and experience before I die".